what tool to use to take clamps off fuel hose on mower
01-03-2011,11:24 PM #1
Registered User
Proper technique for fuel line clamps
My fuel lines were leaking a bit between the line and the clamp on my quick disconnects. As soon equally it gets warm enough, I am going to supplant the lines and clamps. ( R1150RT)What is the proper technique for tightening the clamps?
How shut to the end of the hose should the clamp exist?
How practise I know when the clamp is tight enough, or too tight?
01-03-2011,11:58 PM #ii
#13338
The clamp should be aboat midpoint in the male fitting inserted into the hose.I snug them up until I can see the hose deform slightly. Beyond that is overkill.
Paul Glaves - "Big Curve", Texas U.S.A
"The greatest challenge to whatsoever thinker is stating the trouble in a way that volition allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
http://web.bigbend.internet/~glaves/
01-04-2011,12:10 AM #iii
Daily Passenger
I assume that you have the OEM clamps fabricated by Swiss mfg. Oetiker.
There was a recollect years agone where these clamps came loose and leaked. Y'all can only re-tighten them and all will exist well.
They sell a special tool which is essentially a forepart cutter with dulled edges.
See hither:
http://chadstoolbox.com/1098oetikerclamppliers.aspx
I utilize a regular (sharp) front cutter (no worries, you won't be able to cut the clamp). This worked well to tighten the clamps to the bespeak where they no longer leak.
I also accept been sucessful prying the clamps open up with small screwdrivers, irresolute out the quick disconnects for steel ones (Beemerboneyard carries them), then tightening the onetime clamps back up with the cutters.
J?rgen
Ruddy Rocks
04 R1150GS adv
04 K1200RS last of the great bricks
01-04-2011,03:16 AM #6
#13338
It may be just my opinion, but it seems to me the Oetiker clamps relieve BMW a petty time in the original associates in the factory just are a maintenance headache thereafter unless y'all take a supply of new ones and a somewhat proper tool. Prying off and then rebending to use them again is a kludge. I don't get out of my manner to replace them all but I do replace them any time I have need to remove or loosen one. And I don't supplant them with Oetiker clamps. Expert for manufacturing doesn't always equate to good for maintenance.
Paul Glaves - "Large Bend", Texas United states of americaA
"The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a manner that volition allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
http://spider web.bigbend.cyberspace/~glaves/
01-05-2011,07:00 PM #ten
Twenty-four hours Dreaming ...
Is the hose mentioned in this link UV stable?
Originally Posted past ANDYVH
If the hose is rated as fuel hose, and is rated for the pressure of the fuel injection system then it should exist fine. Must likely it will accept a Nitrile inner tube which should work ok for the temperature ranges on a bike. But if possible, check the temperature rating of the hose if available.
Without knowing more than specifics on the hose I can't say how long it would last. Information technology must also exist a hose that is UV stable (Ultraviolet resistant) considering on a bike the hose volition be directly exposed to sunlight more than so than on a automobile under the hood. A hose that is not UV stable Will harden and cleft but due to direct sun exposure.
I used to piece of work for Dayco before Parker, and Dayco made most of the hose commonly found at auto parts retailers, like NAPA and Auto Zone. Hither is a link to more details on injection fuel hose:
http://www.daycoproducts.com/daycowe...c!OpenDocument
MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
'81 R80G/Due south, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT
01-05-2011,08:09 PM #11
Scottish Transplant
Merely did that too and installed an external filter. Ane of the the tutorials on replacing the filter stated "get 6 feet of fuel injection rated line". I bought mine from NAPA. Rated at 80psi. However information technology was $eight.50 a foot. And so I opted for iii feet with the intention of ownership whatever extra that I would need in 1 pes increments. Happily three anxiety was enough. I am a cheap bastard.
1 of my several wintertime projects is the installation of quick-disconnects on the fuel lines of my '94 RS --
Is in that location some kind of certified Teutonic fuel line needed???? Or, volition whatever AutoZone "pressure" fuel line (of appropriate diameter) work???
2004 R1150GS 1978 R75G/Southward Frankenbike
AMA - BMWMOA - BMWRSOC - AZBEEMERS
Gilbert, Arizona
01-05-2011,11:50 PM #14
Registered User
I remember reading that fuel line rated for fuel injection systems is fine if it'south an external line (outside the tank). Even so, if replacing any line within the tank, information technology has to be rated every bit "submersible" to prevent the breakdown of the outer material. Anyone else care to verity this? I Googled it, and found one of many links:http://www.frsport.com/Gates-27093-five...0_p_15937.html
BTW, both types of line can ordinarily be purchased at your local NAPA dealer.
Motorcycling is my passion considering golf is far too dangerous!
2016 R1200GSW
01-06-2011,01:27 AM #15
Scottish Transplant
To bypass the fuel filter inside the tank you only demand 10" and then at $20/foot you would not break the banking concern unless y'all only take $nineteen in the banking company. I did not cheque if the hose I bought from NAPA was submersible but it certainly is submersed at present.
I think reading that fuel line rated for fuel injection systems is fine if it'southward an external line (outside the tank). However, if replacing any line inside the tank, it has to exist rated equally "submersible" to foreclose the breakdown of the outer material.
2004 R1150GS 1978 R75G/S Frankenbike
AMA - BMWMOA - BMWRSOC - AZBEEMERS
Gilbert, Arizona
Source: https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?50414-Proper-technique-for-fuel-line-clamps
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